Wednesday 19 August 2015

Tree Ties & guards

Tree Ties 

• Trees are attached to stakes by tree ties. These come in a variety of forms. 
• If a guard is to be used, the best ties are metal rings coated with plastic (below). These do not attach physically to the tree but encircle the trunk and prevent excess movement. They allow some movement and therefore encourage the tree to support itself. However they can only be used 1m (3ft) or more from the ground since all movement near the root base has to be prevented. 
• Other ties usually consist of rubber strips (below right). These ground the tree and are then nailed to the stake. A rubber block is strung between the tree and the stake to prevent chafing.
• When staking close to the ground, ties have to be tight enough to prevent any movement of the root-ball. 
• Ties must be loosened or removed as a tree grows. Ties left too tight cause serious bark damage, as they cut into a growing trunk. Fast growing trees, such as poplars and willows, may need ties loosening every year. 
• Ties can usually be removed after three years; but if the guard is to remain for longer, a tie will often be necessary to prevent the tree from rubbing against it.

Guards 

• Trees are often damaged by vehicles, dogs and people. Tree guards help to protect young trees but they need to be maintained. Guards come in various forms. Some are made of a thin wire mesh. This prevents animals stripping bark (right) but offers limited protection from vandalism and vehicles. Plastic coated metal guards are more rigid and more attractive (see picture, below). Both types are attached to a stake with staples. In particularly vulnerable sites, heavy cast iron guards may be necessary. These are bolted to the ground.




Tree Surgeons Yorkshire

Basic guide to planting a tree

Species 

Trees take a long time to mature and can get very large, so selecting the correct species is important.
• An oak tree may be suitable in a large park but a smaller tree, such as a cherry or birch, might be more suitable in a narrow road or garden.
• Some trees need more light (usually those with light coloured leaves) or water (e.g. poplars and willows).
• Other trees are shadetolerant (often those with dark green leaves, e.g. yew and holly).
• If unsure, it is best to get specific advice.

Location 

• Always consider the size the tree will grow to when it is mature. It may look small when you plant it, but remember that it cannot be moved once it has established. Look at a mature tree of the same species to get some idea of the space the tree will need.

When to plant 

• Trees should generally be planted in winter, when they are dormant, i.e. from November to February.
• Trees in containers can be planted at other times but if so they will need more watering and may suffer from shock.
• Bare-rooted trees can only be planted in winter.

How to plant 

• Dig a hole that is slightly wider and deeper than the roots of the tree. The extra space below and at the sides will be in-filled; but, having been loosened, it will help the roots to establish.
• Square holes are better than round holes because tree roots can go round in circles if unable to break out of a round hole (yes, seriously!).
• Back-fill the hole a little so that the tree will be at exactly the same height in the ground as it was at the nursery. If a tree is planted too deep, the stem may rot; if too shallow, the roots above ground will die.
• Put the tree in the hole and replace the soil, firming it down all around the tree. It is essential that the tree is not loose in the ground: the roots need to be immobilised.
• Heel the soil firm (with the heel of your boot) as you back-fill, but do not compact the soil by hammering it down until it is like concrete.
• compacted soil prevents water and air circulation, causing roots to die.
• Now water the tree and cover the soil with a good heap of mulch (e.g. 6-month-old woodchip).

Tree Surgeons Yorkshire